Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
